A First Step  (4/23/2008)

If you use Atlas, Peco, or Walthers flex track.  Paint it a darker color to downplay the oversize details

My hope for this site is that it be a resource for fellow modelers interested in improving their overall modeling results.   All of this is nothing more than words in the ether of the internet if none of the ideas are ever put into practice.   Today lets focus on one easy to implement technique that will result in a dramatic improvement in the overall appearance of your model railroad.  Specifically, lets address the subject of track and ballast.   Railroads run on track so getting this element looking right will go a long ways towards making your layout look better.   As with most areas of model railroading, good results are more a result of proper material and color selection than any magic skill.

For beginners or those with limited time I suggest the Atlas code 83 product.  Its readily available, economical, and has at least passable appearance.  For those looking for the highest level of flex track detail you'll have to move up to the Micro Engineering product line.   To keep things simple lets start with the Atlas brand.   From a distance the track looks acceptable but the spikes are fairly oversize.  The number one rule of color is to use darks to downplay imperfections and use lighter color to highlight details.  Since the Atlas track is 'imperfect' its important to paint it a dark color.  Do not paint the rail tan or rust or you will highlight the out of scale and oversize imperfections in this product.   We will use two colors, both in aerosol spray cans.  You will need Floquil Grimy black and Floquil Roof brown.  Again, both in spray cans (available from Walthers).   The order of application is important.   Until you get the hang of it just do short sections of rail at a time.   First, spray the rail with Roof Brown.  The order is important so do the brown first.  Do a series of light dusting puffs until the rail and ties are covered.   After that is done, switch cans and give some subtle light puffs from above and the sides with Floquil Grimy Black.   Before the paint dries, wipe the rail heads clean.  The easiest way to do this is to take a block of 1"x2" pine, wet it in mineral spirits paint thinner and simply swipe it across the rail head.  You're all done.  Not too hard was it? 

If you use finely detailed, Micro Engineering,  track then paint it a lighter color to highlight the details

Now for the ballast.  This is where material selection is crucial.  You have two choices, you can do it the hard way and get poor results or you can do it the easy way and get good results.   Lets go for the easy way.   The key is to use ballast products made from actual stone.  Woodlands Scenics has many excellent products but their ballast is not one of them!  Its tempting to go with this brand since it is so readily available but it is made from crushed walnut shells, has a texture that is too uniform and a color that is too uniform.  When you apply your glue mix to this product it will float everywhere and ultimately stick to the sides of the rail.

Here's a better way.  I prefer a supplier called Arizona Rock and Mineral Company. www.rrscenery.com  The owner, Phil Anderson, will require a minimum order of six bags.  For HO modelers I suggest you order the following: Part No 138-2 CSX blend HO scale (4bags), 138-1 CSX blend N scale (1 bag),  and part no. 1221 N scale yard mix.  The CSX blend is just a generic salt and pepper mix.  The N scale version can be mixed in with the HO scale for variety and is also handy for general soil use.  The N scale yard mix is light cinder color.

When your ballast order comes in, gently apply the ballast with a soft brush putting less down than you need and gradually fill it in with subsequent layers. Take your time, be patient and make sure no ballast particles are sticking to the rail sides or ties.  Once the loose ballast is in place, take a fine mister bottle of water and add a splash of rubbing alcohol.  Starting from several feet up lightly moisten the ballast with the mister bottle and then gradually move the mister closer to the rail.  You want the ballast to be wet through but not puddling with water.   Finally, add your fixative.  I prefer a mix of 1 part matte medium, 3 parts water, and a splash of alcohol.  Apply the fixative mix with an eye dropper or old Elmers glue bottle.  Let it dry and you're done!

What if your layout is already complete with 'orange rail' and walnut shell ballast?  Well you are kind of stuck in that you can't repaint rail once has been ballasted and removing the offending subject would be a monumental task.  My suggestion is to accept your past results and apply the newer technique to any rail that has not been laid yet.

Becoming A Better Modeler  (4/14/2008)

I've always been intrigued by the process a person goes through to develop their skills in any particular endeavor.   The actual activity is irrelevant.  It could be athletics, music, art, writing, or in our case, model building.  There will always be those who are born with great talent.   In most cases though it really comes down to desire and practice.   To say that a superior result was obtained simply because a person was born with a skill diminishes the effort it took for the person to get to that point.

Building quality models, in my view,  breaks down to 45%  proper technique and material  selection, 45% practice, and at most 10% natural talent.  Before we even get that far though there has to be a desire to be a better modeler.

I need to be clear that there is absolutely nothing wrong with being happy with your current state of modeling capabilities and maintaining the status quo.   If you're having a good time and enjoying what you are doing then that is what the hobby is all about.  There can not, and should not, be any apologies for your current level of modeling ability.  Here's an example.  I really enjoy fishing.  I'm a terrible fisherman.  I never catch anything.  Most of the time I don't want to catch anything.  I rarely read fishing magazines.  However, put me on a pier on quiet Sunday morning and I'm quite content.    Viewed that way its quite easy for me to understand how somebody could take a casual, superficial approach to model railroading and have a great time doing so.

For me, model railroading is different.  This is my primary hobby and the one I strive to become better at with each passing month.   If a person were to ask me for suggestions on improving their modeling skills I'd offer up the list below as a starting point.

-As stated above you need to have the DESIRE to become better.

-Learn from past mistakes.   Maybe mistake isn't the right word.   Learn to look  back on previous efforts and identify the areas that need the most improvement.

-Ask for advice

-As important, implement the advice you were given

-Develop an eye for what looks good and what does not.

-Stay abreast of the more modern techniques and materials (Static grass, etc.).  Many people cling to old materials and techniques long after more effective methods or better looking materials become available.

-Master the basics of creating clean joints and seams on your models.  Make sure things that should be straight are straight, corners are at 90 degree angles and that there are no unsightly gaps at your joints.  This is easier said than done and comes with time and practice.

-Study the work of those you strive to emulate and evaluate what is different about what they've done.

-No matter who you are, you will always be improving.  Your past efforts won't be as good as what you can do now.  Accept this and enjoy where you are on the modeling skill spectrum.    Look back on previous efforts without regret and acknowledge they were your best effort at that point in time.

-Practice.   When trying a new technique practice on a sample, off the layout, until you can produce acceptable results.

-Study high quality 'how to' DVD's

-Practice basic neatness at all levels

-Pay particular attention to color and flat sheen

-Avoid the temptation to add too many elements to your model railroad scenes.  Scene composition is very important.

-Learn how to use india ink/alcohol weathering washes.

-Learn how to use black and brown weathering chalks.

-Learn to scratch build structures.  Scratch building a structure is often easier than wrestling with a poorly manufactured kit.

-Build models on a consistent basis.  Don't go for extended periods of time without doing anything.

-Attend prototype modeling seminars

-Carefully study prototype photos and copy what you see in miniature

You can do it.... if you want to.

Tools  (4/7/2008)

I recently attended seminars put on by master modelers Mont Switzer and Bill Darnaby on the subject of model railroading tools.   As I sat down for the seminars, I prepared to be wowed by an extensive list of  expensive, ultra-sophisticated tools that would literally make my models fall together perfectly.   At the end of the seminars I was quite under whelmed.   My bubble had been burst.  There were no 'super tools'.   They don't really exist.  I laugh when I look back on it and they laugh when I recount to them how they let the air out of my balloon.   The truth is, when it comes to model railroading tools you really do not need much.   From a cost standpoint this is good news in that it means exceptional results are available to all regardless of financial resources.   Here are some basics.

-Number 11 blades.  Sharp ones and lots of them.  Change your blades often.   Single edge razor blades work equally well

-A few small screw drivers

-Hand held pin vise (aka twist drill) and small drill bits

-Tweezers

-Sandpaper in a variety of grits from 100 to 600.  Sanding sticks are handy but not necessary.

-Three or four files of varying shapes

-Pins (Straight, T, or Push) to apply glue

-Super glue (regular and gel)

-Testors liquid plastic cement

-A steel straight edge. Better yet, a steel scale rule will kill two birds with one stone.

-Optivisor magnifying glasses 

-Bragdon Weathering Chalks http://www.bragdonent.com/about.htm (Black and Chocolate Brown only) Part numbers FF-64 Soot Black, FF-69 Brown

-India Ink/Alcohol weathering wash.  Make two strengths (1 tsp Higgins ink per pint of 91% alcohol and a stronger batch made with 2 tsp per pint)

-Aerosol spray paint: Ultra Flat Black, Charcoal Primer, Light Gray Primer, Grimy Black, Roof Brown,  Rustoleum Textured Paint (sandstone color)

-TRASH CAN.  Get in the habit of discarding sub-par efforts quickly.  If a project doesn't turn out, pitch it and start anew.

Optional (Handy but not essential)

-An airbrush and compressor are nice but you can live a long time without one.

-Steel angles

-Northwest Shortline Chopper

-Dremel tool